The Long March - In 1934, Mao Zedong led the Chinese Communist Party on a massive military retreat to evade the pursuit of the Kuomintang army. The communists escaped in circling retreat to the north of the country, which ultimately covered some 8,000 km over 370 days. 71 years later, a particular Chairman Yao embarks on his 150-day tour of China and chonrincles his adventures in the Chink Chink Diaries.

Sunday, October 16, 2005

Xi'an, Shaanxi

西安,陕西
What LP says: Shaanxi was the centre of Chinese civilisation, and Xi'an is a magnificent window through which to view it. For more than two millennia, over a dozen dynasties rose and fell in Shaanxi, but always in proximity to this splendid living museum....

Indeed, Xi'an - the eastern terminus for the epic caravans of the Silk Road(s) - did influence the world outside the Middle Kingdom. Opening China to Central Asisa and the Occident, here arrived camels laden with exotic trade goods. Invited Buddhist monks and Islamic emissaries influenced cultural, political and scientific thought. Xi'an, in short, effected a blossoming of China.

Today, Xi'an is understandably once of China's major tourist attractions. The city's big draw is the nearby Army of Terracotta Warriors, and there are countless other sights scattered in and around town. An Islamic element is found throughout the city, with mosques and marketplaces tucked away in back alleys. Consistent with history, the city's extraordinary ability to change with the times is apparent: travellers cannot help but notice its efficient infrastructure and lack of grit and pollution. In short, past and present are beautifully realised.

What KB says: The Terracotta Warriors (part of, and together with the Qinshihuang Tomb area) deserve the tag of Eighth Wonder of the World, and has more than one amazing story behind them, as I learned from my attached guide at the Qingshihuang Mausoleum.

  1. MASSIVE SCALE: The entire tomb area of Mr Qin is 2.5x the size of Macau. The Warriors face east and are arranged in a battle-formation. They are concealed by wooden roofs and entired sealed - built to be hidden and protect his tomb. Mr Qin ordered his tomb to be built since he was thirteen. For every year that he lived, he wanted his tomb to be one zhang (10 feet) taller. He eventually died at the age of 50. Go figure. Along with the warriors were statues of opera performers and animals (he loved hunting).
  2. DEEP IMPACT: The experts have ascertained his body lies exactly 35m underground, not just 6 feet under. :P Anyway, they can't excavate because a) there are 3 watersheds above his tomb and if done wronly, the entire area will collaspe; b) disturing the land will cause ecological damage; c) the Chinese haven't found the appropriate technology to undertake such massive operation.
  3. HUMBLE BEGINNINGS: The Warriors were first discovered by a farmer who was digging a well in 1974. He chanced upon a pieces of a Warrior head which were still coloured. Exposure the air caused the colours to fade. He is now over 80 years in age and an honourary Chinese citizen.
  4. BIG IN JAPAN: Apparently Qinshihuang sent some people to Japan in search of some immortality potion. Obviously they didn't find any. In any case, some Japanese trace their ancestry back to the Chinese from the Qin period and donated a sum of money to this farmer. He kept no part of it and saved none for this children. Instead, he built a primary school anto provide free education for the kids in the village.
  5. SOMETHING FOR CHELSEA: Nope, not the one in West London, but the former First Daughter. When Bill Clinton visited the Warriors, he asked the man if he sign an autograph for Chelsea. This guy was illiterate, so he drew 3 cirles - "My name has 3 characters so this is my name." A calligrapher later taught him 8 Chinese characters and now he writes these 8 characters for all dignitaries who visit the Warriors. I can't recall the 8 characters, though. You can still get the same autograph if you buy a special publication for RMB150. He now sits in a corner at the souvenir shop and gladly shakes hands with visitors.
  6. THE LKY LINK: Our very own Mr Lee Kuan Yew visited the area about a decade ago and was so determined to help the Chinese to restore the tomb area he donated RMB2.83 million for roadworks. In appreciation of his kind donation, a 283-step staircase leading to the top of the mausoleum was erected.

-- Photos from Xi'an can be viewd at http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingSignin.jsp?Uc=4ywgyf1t.5aukki8t&Uy=-2g0d9d&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&UV=10812455572_145745878205 --